12 May 2012

"Till by turning and turning we come 'round right"


Those who have not realized God will wander,
homeless in this world, destitute in the next.
But watch the lovers dance with ecstasy,
as they merge into the oneness of God. - Sultan Bahu

I just returned from seeing the Al-Tannoura whirling dervishes in Islamic Cairo. It almost didn't happen, because my friend E. and I arrived just in time to see the wooden doors of the Caravanserai, hung with a sign reading "Completed" (meaning full capacity), close in our face. We were bemoaning our luck to a group of Egyptian guys sitting outside the door - and one of them just happened to be in charge of the lighting for the performance. Like most Egyptian men, he was easily sweet talked, and we were being snuck in through a side door in no time 

The Whirling Dervish performance in Cairo is now largely for entertainment and demonstration of cultural heritage rather than a religious rite. The whirling is associated with Sufism and originally developed as a contemplative practice. The repetitive spinning, along with highly symbolic positioning of the head, hands, and feet, are intended to bring the adherent into closer union with God.

The performers spin continuously for 25-30 minutes at a time to the accompaniment of tablas, tambourines, and other local instruments I cannot name correctly. A lot of dramatic flourishes are thrown in for the audience - but deviation from pure practice doesn't diminish the hypnotic effect. 

The rhythmic music and movements are a spiritual, joyful centrifuge. The base and disconsolate elements of the self are spun down and separated out, allowing the ecstatic and the divine to rise to the top - and eventually overflow.